Reflections on a flight-free attempt through Southeast Asia
- Keira Proust
- Aug 15
- 8 min read
Five months, six countries, seven trains, 16 boats, 40 buses and a whole bunch of other miscellaneous modes of transport… this pretty much sums up my attempt at flight-free travel through Southeast Asia!
I’ve finally had time to reflect on the joyous, chaotic whirlwind that was backpacking through Southeast Asia with Paddy. We left Australia in January, flying to Bali to start the trip in Indonesia’s Gili Islands. We then spent six weeks island hopping through Bali, Java and Sumatra before winding our way up through Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. We visited all of these Southeast Asian countries over five months without flying (which, on a side note, has kick-started a whole ongoing personal journey/battle about the ethics of travel and how we can do it better… but more on that another time!!)
Returning to Asia as an adult was a beautiful experience. Having plenty of time to properly explore these vibrant countries and hang out with Paddy (plus wonderful new friends) felt like a genuine gift!
Nothing has made me miss travelling through Southeast Asia more than looking at my bank balance a few weeks after arriving in Europe. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love Europe! But Southeast Asia really does have a very special place in my heart. There are, of course, numerous reasons for this. First, there was the nostalgia I felt while wandering through countries like Malaysia and Cambodia, which both took me back to the joys of backpacking with my family as a child.
Then there is the food. Oh, how it is so, so insanely good, and so, so cheap. It is truly incomparable. From seriously finger-lickin’ good crispy fried chicken with spicy sambal to vibrant red coconut laksa, freshly baked bahn mi buns, a smorgasbord of vegetables/herbs on offer and everything in between… I could happily live on a Southeast Asian diet for a long time. And of course, pretty much everyone you meet in this part of the world is bloody delightful!
Honestly, the list goes on and on.
So here is a little snapshot of some of the most beautiful experiences I had during my five months of flight-free travel in this part of Asia and what it all ended up costing!
Flight-free travel experiences
Paddy and I decided to attempt the Southeast Asian leg of our travels without flying for a number of reasons. Most importantly, we are very conscious of how much travel can impact the environment, particularly flying. We were also excited for a challenge and to spend more time seeing the countries we were visiting.
Don't get me wrong, there were a few times where we wished we were flying. Figuring out how to get to Sumatra's north without flying was a challenge, as was the long slog of travel to northern Thailand while sick and figuring out Vietnam's visa system to enter by land. But I am so incredibly glad we chose to travel this way. We spent A LOT of time on buses, trains, boats and motorbikes, and travelled more than 12,000 kilometres. Our flight-free attempt was successful right until the very end, when the Thailand/Cambodia border closed due to fighting. We would have missed so many elements of these countries if we had flown, and we would not have had as many meaningful interactions with locals. So, here's a little list of some of my favourite flight-free experiences.
Seeing Singapore from the water during our 65-hour ferry trip to Medan.
Experiencing some of the most spectacular train journeys from Java’s eastern tip to Jakarta.
Karaoke, dancing and drum playing with Indonesians on board a ferry to Sumatra.
Seeing the sun set as we crossed over the equator.
Our first overnight bus, complete with Indonesian techno music starting at 10pm to keep us company during the bumpy ride.
Island hopping my way from Malaysia to mainland Thailand. If I had flown, I likely would have missed Koh Lipe, which was a Thai highlight.
Appreciating the sheer size of Thailand and Vietnam. Crossing from Thailand's southernmost (Koh Lipe) to its highest point (Golden Triangle) made me realise how truly immense the country is.
Making a bunch of new friends on a slow boat from Thailand to Laos.
Gaining a real appreciation for our roads back home after a hellish 9-10 hour bumpy minivan ride to Phonsavan, which arguably became one of our most favourite places in Laos and made the whole ordeal totally worth it!
Seeing true rural Laos and better understanding the ongoing impact of America’s intense bombing on the country.
Spending my birthday along the Mekong at Laos’ Four Thousand Islands in the south. We had to wait longer than expected for our visa approvals because we were crossing by land. Thus, we changed our plans and headed south on a mix of buses to the little Mekong outpost for my birthday!
Another blurry-eyed early morning as we entered Vietnam through some magnificent rolling hills and transitioned to the madness of the country’s chaotic roadways in real time.
The endless dodging of children and farm animals on the rural roads throughout Laos and Vietnam, including while riding buses and on motorbikes. But seriously, we got to see so much of the landscape and how people lived rurally while enduring these mad journeys.
An epic (and painfully long) 30-hour train journey from Vietnam’s north to south. We were able to watch two vivid sunsets over the lush countryside as we descended south.
Weaving our way through rural Cambodia. We spotted dozens of casinos over the border from Vietnam. Taking our time on the road, we also decided to make our way up to the Mekong again for the Irrawaddy river dolphin spotting.
Overall favourite memories
Sumatran jungle trekking
Watching orangutans, gibbons and Thomas Leaf monkeys swinging above us in the dense Sumatran jungle. The air was so thick with humidity that we looked as though we had been swimming. We saw seven orangutans over two days, slept in a wooden hut by a blue stream in the middle of the forest and watched fireflies light up the night sky while listening to our guide tell local ghost stories.
Travels with Dad
Reconnecting with my dad in Sumatra and Cambodia! We spent a week together in northern Sumatra's Lake Toba. During this time, we rode motorbikes together, did a cooking class, explored local markets and played a lot of card games. Paddy and I were also able to see him again just before we left Cambodia, as he passed through Siem Reap. It was delightful to enjoy some more travel adventures together after spending so much time in Southeast Asia with him and Mum as a child.
Thai island sunsets
Being able to see some of the most vivid sunsets on Koh Lipe in southern Thailand. I spent about a week on the island. Every day was spent snorkelling in crystal clear water, taking photos of the idyllic island life and reading on the many surrounding beaches. I’d end each night with a beer in hand while watching the sunset over the ocean. The best was while on a boat after an afternoon of snorkelling off the island. The waves were captivating, changing from turquoise to a vivid yellow, orange and red, as the sun set above us.
Two-day Laos slow boat
Slowing down along the Mekong River into Laos. We spent two days cruising down the mighty river on a slow boat. The landscape changed from dusty hills to lush mountains as we came closer to Luang Prabang. We made some lovely friends on the boat, who we continued to meet up with throughout our travels.
Laos' ancient sites
Exploring the incredibly mysterious Plain of Jars in Laos’ east. The sites were much more impressive and mysterious than Stonehenge, but we had them all to ourselves! Immense stone jars filled fields and forests. They are believed to have once been used for burials, but much is still unknown about how they got there or why there were so many.
Cao Bang motorbike loop
Spending three days on the back of a motorbike in Vietnam’s northeast and watching some of the world’s most beautiful scenery pass us by. The Cao Bang loop was probably my favourite experience of the entire Southeast Asia leg of our trip. Our riders, Chuyen and Tai, were genuinely delightful humans. The scenery was otherworldly. We ate some of the best Vietnamese food in little villages along the way. Plus, we got to see some traditional arts being kept alive authentically. Feeling the wind in our hair as we were whizzed around villages and mountains on the motorbikes was a freeing experience.
Critically endangered river dolphins
Witnessing some of the world’s last Irrawaddy dolphins in the Mekong River was a bittersweet experience. I felt so privileged to be able to see these wonderful creatures in real life, but saddened by the never-ending impacts humans are having on the natural world. Only around 100 survive in a small stretch of the Mekong River, but the population is slowly increasing. They were elusive and funny-looking animals who brought immense joy into my heart.
Costs for five months in Southeast Asia
Essentially, I spent $10,017 (AUD) over a five-month period. This includes everything... flights to Indonesia, transport, sims, insurance and daily costs.
Travel cost breakdown
Daily costs
My daily costs for five months totalled $8,785. This meant I was spending around $400 per week on average. This includes all of our transport, food, accommodation, alcohol and activities. Crazy cheap!! The cheapest country overall was Vietnam, while Cambodia was the most expensive.
Transport
Our flights to Indonesia cost $330 each. We also had to pay for last-minute flights to Bangkok when the Cambodia/Thailand border was shut abruptly amid fighting. That frustratingly cost us $368 each. Other expensive transport included our three-day ferry to Sumatra ($150), the slow boat into Laos ($152) and the 30-hour train to southern Vietnam ($208). Most other modes of transport were very affordable.
Insurance
I spent $460 on comprehensive travel insurance for six months in Asia. We didn't know where we would be visiting and how long we would stay, so we extended the insurance to include more countries than we travelled to, which increased the price slightly.
Extras
I spent $130 on e-sims for the five months across Asia. We had to post a package home after a little shopping spree in Vietnam, which cost $138 in total. I also got some things tailored, plus enjoyed some of the markets, so I spent about $192 on clothes.
Final ponderings
While it can seem that there is a lot of evil in this world (especially at this current time in history), I believe that it is mostly filled with kind, good people. I have long thought this, but travelling back to Asia reaffirmed it for me.
Humans can do horrific things. Everywhere we travelled had a haunting and depressing past. People colonised, murdered, raped and forgotten. These histories and realities are worldwide. But despite this, people mostly remain kind and full of hope. I think this is what we must hold onto to stay human.
Community is everything. Surround yourself with people who inspire you, push you to grow and most importantly, who are kind. We should never stop fighting injustices, but we all need community to come back to when the world feels a bit too dark. Without that, I fear we all risk losing our humanity. I, for one, am looking forward to building that community whenever I return home!
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