Spotting rare river dolphins and learning hard histories in Cambodia
- Keira Proust
- Jun 29
- 13 min read
Cambodia was yet another highlight of our five-month trip to Southeast Asia. It was vibrant, filled with a rich (and devastating) history, and provided numerous delicious and adventurous food options. Plus, we enjoyed several nights out with some wonderful friends we had made along the way. We spent about 17 days exploring the mainland.
The best part of all was spotting more than a dozen critically endangered Irawaddy river dolphins along the Mekong in Cambodia's north-east. They were gorgeous creatures, and the whole experience made me incredibly happy. In a not-so-nice-moment, we had quite a stressful time getting to Thailand. The land borders were all closed amid rising tensions between the Thai and Cambodian soliders, which forced us to abandon the flight-free finale to our Southeast Asia trip.
Phnom Penh
Our first stop in Cambodia was Phnom Penh. We took a six-hour bus from Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam to Cambodia's capital. It was another slow bus ride, but we were just excited to reach a new country. Our first impressions of Cambodia were that there were many casinos (lining the road as we crossed the land border) and that it was a ridiculously flat country.
Paddy was still recovering from an illness when we arrived in Phnom Penh, so we took it fairly easy during our four days in the city. We caught up with some friends we had made in Laos, Josh and Thomas from the UK, as well as some people they'd met in Vietnam. It was lovely to indulge in some cocktails, tarot readings (courtesy of Paddy) and banter after a few long travel days.
Our first day was spent at the Tuol Sleng genocide museum in Phnom Penh. It was once a school, but was turned into a prison/torture chamber when the Khmer Rouge came into power in 1975. I spent most of the visit crying because the history was so horrific. I had visited Cambodia with my family several times when I was younger, so I was aware of the Khmer Rouge and their atrocities; however, I struggled to completely understand/fathom them until I came to this museum. If you visit, absolutely take the time to listen to the audio-guided tour. It gives you a real sense of the horrors experienced in the school-turned-prison, as well as some moving victim-survivor accounts.
Pol Pot and his regime came into power in April 1975. The regime was responsible for one of the worst mass killings of the last century. Between two and three million people are believed to have been killed during the Khmer Rouge's four-year rule. The Vietnamese forced the group out of Phnom Penh in 1979, but many of the forces, including the leader Pol Pot, survived in rebel groups until the late 1990s. Another horrific fact I learnt was that despite the atrocities committed, the Western world and the UN continued to recognise the Khmer Rouge regime as a "legitimate" government until 1990.
Although it was a very challenging and upsetting place to visit, I believe it's a history that everyone should learn about. One would hope the leaders of the world would also take the time to learn this history. However, as we look at the world around us today, one could easily question whether the past has taught us anything at all.
The rest of our time in Phnom Penh was spent exploring the city and relaxing after a hectic time in Vietnam. We also visited a fascinating museum about the history of money, called SOSORO. It was very modern, interactive and engaging. The museum showcased examples of ancient history through coins found in Cambodia, all the way through to the Khmer Rouge's rule and modern times. It was probably the best museum I've visited this entire trip.
Kratie and the Irrawaddy dolphins
Another Southeast Asia highlight occurred back on the mighty Mekong River near Kratie, Cambodia. We spent just over four hours heading to Kratie in a minivan from Phnom Penh. A mighty storm rolled in mere seconds after checking into our quaint riverside guesthouse, called Sorya.
We spent the afternoon enjoying the storm, playing Scrabble and sinking some beers before a vivid sunset settled across the Mekong River. Kratie is the main hub for visitors wishing to see the critically endangered Irrawaddy/Mekong river dolphins. The dolphins once flourished in the Mekong River, but no more. There are fewer than 110 dolphins in the 190km stretch of river north of Kratie today. However, the numbers are slowly increasing, with around seven babies born earlier this year. Our guide told us that the dolphin population plummeted after the Khmer Rouge regime, as locals used dynamite and other destructive methods to catch fish in the river. Now, the area is protected, and a lot of work has gone into educating the community about the importance of conserving the environment and local species. As tourism in the region grows, so too does the awareness of the species' importance.
We woke up early to start our river dolphin adventure. We opted for a kayaking trip along the Mekong, which our guesthouse was known for. Once in the kayaks, it didn't take long for our arms to feel the burn. The currents in the Mekong are really strong. We were in a group of about eight people and, despite Paddy's strength, often found ourselves straggling towards the back (I could probably be blamed the most for this due to my weak little arms).
We spent a couple of hours weaving across, down and up the Mekong. We passed some floating forests and plenty of sandy islands. After about an hour, we stopped for a refreshing dip and some local sticky rice before continuing along in the hopes of spotting a dolphin.
Finally, we saw a couple dart out of the water ahead of us. Before long, our guide was leading us back upstream (against the mighty current) for a chance to see them again. They are the funniest-looking creatures. Their heads are round and not at all elegant, unlike their ocean friends. They are also incredibly fast. As we struggled against the current, I began to lose hope that I would get a chance to see them again, let alone capture a photo.
Luckily, our guide let us jump into a local wooden boat to give our arms a rest and a chance to get up closer to the dolphins. A local boatman rode us around the river, and we squealed in delight at every subsequent dolphin sighting. I think we spotted around 15 in total, with some travelling in pods. We also saw a few babies! It was a beautiful and absolutely unforgettable experience. One can only hope the population continues to grow and that they'll be here for the generations that follow.
Siem Reap and Angkor Wat
After a relaxing couple of nights in Kratie, we made our way to Siem Reap, Cambodia's most popular and well-known destination. Made famous, of course, by the impressive Angkor Wat and surrounding temples, Siem Reap is a bustling hive of activity.
We decided to extend our time in Cambodia to help us relax before the end of our Southeast Asian journey. So, we had plenty of time to explore Siem Reap and its surroundings. We were staying in possibly the best hostel I've ever visited. Onederz had three pools, a chill bar, provided sooooo many social activities, and just had a really lovely vibe. We were able to have some more reunions with friends and make a couple of new ones as well.
One of the first places we visited was the APOPO landmine rat centre. Located just out of the city's centre, the facility is home to dozens of rats that help clear landmines from across Cambodia. Like Laos, Cambodia was also heavily bombed by the United States during the war in Vietnam. Many people are still being killed and injured by unexploded ordnances today. The African pouch rats are trained to smell TNT or explosives. They are too light to set off the bombs, so they make for a perfect tool in detecting the explosives.
We learnt that the rats can also be trained to sniff out tuberculosis. The organisation also uses dogs when necessary, and it operates in countries affected by conflict all over the world. The rats were surprisingly large and very cute. Apparently, none have died during their important work over the past ten years, and they've cleared nearly 7,000 unexploded ordnances. Once a section of land is cleared of bombs, it can go back to the farmers or be turned into safe public land.
We spent one night at a local market eating a bunch of bugs and frogs with some new friends from the hostel. Surprisingly, the insects and crispy frogs were delicious. I would definitely eat them again. We enjoyed some tuk tuk karaoke on the way back before a night on the bevs with some friends, and more karaoke out at Pub Street.
The temples
Most people come to Cambodia simply to see the majestic sight that is Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples. To be fair, they are incredible, and I can obviously understand why they're the country's main attraction. However, it is a shame that many people seem to overlook the many other things Cambodia has to offer! But, I digress.
I had first visited the temples as a child with my parents. I was very glad to have the chance to go back and soak it all in as a fully functioning adult.
We were meant to get up around 5am, but didn't make it to the temples until around 630am. However, we still beat some of the heat and made the most of the morning once we had arrived. Our first stop was, of course, Angkor Wat. The most iconic of the temples. We hadn't really come up with a plan for the day, and after realising it would take a couple of hours to walk to the next temple, we opted for a tuk tuk to drive us between the sites. That was an excellent decision because it got very hot, very quickly.
There isn't much to say about the temples, except... wow, wow, wow. They are ridiculously stunning and awe-inspiring. You really are seeing the peak of a civilisation when you walk around the structures. The temples were built by different kings during the height of the Khmer Empire in the 9th to 12th centuries. Some have been spectacularly reconstructed, others remain in ruins, which adds to the allure.
Our favourite was Ta Prohm, made famous by the Tomb Raider movie. Trees had devoured whole sections of the temple. There are so many sites to explore, and we only got to about five, but it was a wonderful day. Another highlight was the Bayon Temple, which is covered in King Jayavarman VII's face. It was a lot less touristy than I remembered as a child. We were visiting in the quiet season, so we were perhaps just lucky to miss the crowds.
Another Siem Reap highlight was a visit to the wonderful Phare Circus. The circus performers are highly skilled artists, painters, acrobats and musicians. The Khmer Rouge waged war on Cambodian art and culture during its oppressive regime. Many artists were murdered and artworks destroyed. Despite this, the arts are starting to flourish once again in Siem Reap and surrounds.
The circus was established to train young people in the arts and rebuild what was lost during the regime. The workshop and training centre is based in Battambang, while the graduated adult performers put on a nightly show in Siem Reap. The performance was moving, funny, and it had me on the edge of my seat at times as acrobats performed nerve-wracking manoeuvres. Some of the performers have even gone on to work with the Cirque du Soleil. They are the real deal.
Battambang and the bat caves
Instead of relaxing during my last couple of days in Asia, I decided to take a trip to Battambang. Paddy, the smart man that he is, stayed in Siem Reap to unwind before our next mammoth journey. I, however, jumped on another rickety bus and made my way to Battambang, around three hours southwest of Siem Reap. It's becoming more popular with backpackers and is the artistic hub of Cambodia.
I stayed at The Place Hostel and decided to go on a day tour with them to see all the sights on offer around the region. As I arrived in Battambang, all the nights of karaoke and drinking seemed to catch up with me. I started to get a sore throat and began feeling, once again, quite rundown. But alas, I was not going to miss out on the sights and soldiered on.
I jumped on a tuk tuk with about five other backpackers from the hostel and we made our way through the countryside to the famous bamboo trains. The trains were once used to cart goods and passengers after the Khmer Rouge was overthrown. They can be quickly dismantled and reassembled to avoid collision with other trains travelling in the opposite direction. The experience had been preserved for tourists but may soon be removed to make way for a high-speed railway instead. We reached around 30km/h onboard and got to see some beautiful scenery. However, it did feel a little gimmicky, and some children were trying to sell bracelets at the start and finish.
We next visited a gorgeous temple complex with a dark history. The site had been used as a prison and a killing field during the Khmer Rouge regime. I came to learn that many places across Cambodia had a similar sad history, with thousands of mass graves found across the country. Despite this, the Cambodians have been able to reclaim these places and create a place of learning for the generations moving forward.
We were also treated to some local rural specialties along the way, including sticky rice, rice wine and rice paper rolls. We visited some local villages that were making these products. Rice wine is more commonly consumed in rural Cambodia, while those in the cities apparently prefer beer. We tried six different flavours, and I can't say I particularly liked any of them all that much. The rice paper was the most interesting consumable to watch being made. Two locals worked over very hot coals to steam the rice paste into a thin round shape before popping them onto racks to dry and eventually turn into the rice paper we all know and love.
The evening was spent exploring the Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau and taking in the stunning surrounding views. It felt wrong to see such beauty in a place that had endured so much horror. However, in a mostly flat country, it was nice to see some mountains and get an elevated view of the countryside.
The day's finale was at the famed Battambang Bat Caves. Millions of bats stream out of the cave around 6pm every single day. They leave the cave in a swirling pattern and follow each other into the outside world, hunting for insects. I'd never seen bats move in this way before, and it was mesmerising to watch. We spent about 40 minutes admiring the formations before heading back to the hostel. There were hundreds of locals sitting and watching the bats alongside us, which gave it a nice vibe. They all come back in separate groups around 4am after a big feast.
Anniversary in Siem Reap
I came back to Siem Reap to celebrate Paddy and I's sixth anniversary! We had a wonderful morning swimming in the pool before getting tattoos! We had planned to get one at the end of our Asia trip and felt it was a fitting occasion. Hobbies and passions appeared to be the theme. I opted for a little camera while Paddy had a snare drum design ready to go. It went well and we were very happy with the outcomes. To celebrate, we treated ourselves to a lovely three-course French lunch and cocktails. The night ended with some lovely spring rolls, more cocktails and a family reunion.
We were able to catch up with my dad and his partner, who were in Siem Reap for a couple of days after a trip to Borneo. We went out for a couple of nice dinners and shared travel stories. It was lovely to see a familiar face from home again, and have another reunion after our week together in Sumatra in March.
Flight-free travel woes
Disaster struck just two days before we were meant to leave Asia, as the tensions between Cambodia and Thailand escalated. Mere minutes after booking our bus from Siem Reap to Bangkok airport we read reports that the land borders had all been closed. Tensions had been rising between the Thai and Cambodian forces along the border for weeks, and it had resulted in the military forcing all land crossings shut. We had also read that some flights were now been cancelled between the two cities. We quickly had to pivot and find another option. The only feasible alternative was booking a flight from Siem Reap to Bangkok and hope that it wasn't cancelled on the day. We had a midnight flight to Milan that we couldn't miss. Luckily, we made it and arrived at Bangkok airport with nine hours to spare before our flight to Europe.
I was quite sad that we would not be able to finish our Southeast Asia loop completely flight-free. However, I was very happy with how far we had made it! Due to conflicts and border complications around many parts of the world currently, we decided to fly to Europe and continue our flight-free attempts once there. I hope that we'll be able to experience the Trans Siberian railway or other flight-free adventures into Europe in the future.
Overall Cambodia budget
Essentially: $1,972 for two people (17 days). I spent on average $58 every day (or $405 a week).
Travel cost breakdown
Food
Cambodia was more expensive than the other countries we had explored on our Southeast Asia trip, particularly for food. Most restaurants advertised their meals in USD, with many costing between $3-$8 USD each. We probably ate the most adventurously here, with snakes, frogs, crocodile, and insects all on the menu. We were able to find some meals for about $1.5USD, but this was rare. Given this, we ate a few yogurts for breakfast to save some money.
Transport
Buses and tuk tuks cost slightly more than in Vietnam and Laos, but probably on par with Thailand. We paid about $14 AUD for a three hour bus trip.
Accomodation
A night's sleep cost less than some of our meals! Accommodation was really affordable in Cambodia. I got dorm rooms for $5AUD a night. We spent about $25 for a private room with bathroom in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, in a hostel with pools and a lovely bar setting. It was a great deal.
Alcohol
Booze was more expensive than in Vietnam, again, because of the USD. But we were able to get cocktails for around $5AUD and beers were still less than a dollar in many spots! We enjoyed a couple of nights out, so spent a little more on alcohol.
Activities
Given this was the last country on our Southeast Asia trip we didn't spend much on activities. The biggest cost was the Irrawaddy dolphin kayaking tour, which only set us back about $33AUD each. Museums were a lot more expensive, costing around $10USD each visit. However, they were really well put together and worth the money. I also spent around $25AUD for a day tour around Battambang. It was all still ridiculously affordable compared to Europe or at home,
In summary...
Cambodia is a truly wonderful country. It has some of the most devastating modern history and some of the most inspiring feats of ancient times. You can really eat quite adventurously here. There is a great social scene in Siem Reap and parts of Phnom Penh if you're wanting to meet people. The landscape isn't as diverse as Laos, Vietnam or Thailand, but it's home to some incredible creatures and some of the loveliest people I've met. I think it's a place that deserves more time on the backpacker itinerary. There's lots to learn and experience (including tropical islands that we didn't make it to on this trip).
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