The mysterious Plain of Jars and a Lao wedding invite
- Keira Proust
- May 7
- 6 min read
Updated: Jun 29
Did you know that Laos is the most bombed country, per capita, in the world? I learnt this horrific fact at a museum in Luang Prabang. Despite this, it remains one of the most beautiful countries in Southeast Asia. It is a place filled with fascinating tribal cultures and ancient histories. Paddy and I decided to extend our stay here, first exploring Luang Prabang's peaceful streets and the mysterious UNESCO heritage-listed Plain of Jars.
Kuang Si Falls, Luang Prabang
We spent four relaxing days in and around Luang Prabang, probably Laos's most popular tourist destination. The town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995. It has a fascinating blend of French colonial and Lao architecture. The streets are almost always quiet, yet it also has a vibrant cafe and bar scene. We spent our days trying food at joints along the Mekong River. Our nights were filled with many local beers and good conversations with new friends. After one night on the beers, we ended up at a bowling alley filled with other travellers outside of town. It was unlike any alley I've ever visited, as people smoked and drank themselves silly indoors. It was good fun, and we were very relieved to have the relaxing city soothe our hurting heads the next day.
The famous Kuang Si Falls are probably Luang Prabang's most sought-after destination. We took a motorbike out in the morning to beat the crowds, and it definitely didn't disappoint. The road was a bit dodgy in some parts, with wood coming off the skinny bridges and roadworks causing a bit of muddy chaos. We made it there alive and soaked up the cool water in several pools. I had visited the waterfalls with my family about 10 years ago, but it was amazing to come back and experience it again. We found a very friendly and curious black dog, who we named Humphry. He followed us into several falls for a dip and loved splashing around the vibrant pools.
There was also a sanctuary set up for rescued Laotian bears. Poaching means Moon and Sun Bears can no longer live in the wild. It was sad to see, but also heartening to read about the work many people are doing to keep the endangered species alive.
We also found a buffalo dairy on the way back into town!! So, we obliged and enjoyed a buffalo cheese board, arancini and ice cream. It was absolutely delicious and my first taste of cheese in quite a long time. Unfortunately, our motorbike skidded on a dodgy bridge during our ride back to Luang Prabang. We came out of the ordeal with some minor scratches and luckily only had to pay $35 to fix the scuffed paint. Another reason why we always drive slowly on the roads over here!!
A bumpy road to Phonsavan
Our next destination was in the country's east to explore the mysterious and ancient Plain of Jars. We took a 10-hour, very crammed minivan to Phonsavan along some of the worst roads I've ever seen. It was probably the bumpiest ride of my life! But the scenery of rolling hills, rustic villages and young children along the roadside was a highlight. It also felt like we were finally getting back off the "beaten track" and into authentic Laos. It is still the burning season in parts of Laos and northern Thailand, so there were also times when the hillsides were covered in smoke and flames. As we wound our way up into the mountains, we could feel the air getting cooler and became excited about the refreshing reprieve waiting for us in Phonsavan.
A Lao wedding
Our first treat in Phonsavan was a surprise local Hmong/Lao wedding! Our host, Kong, invited us to the elaborate affair as soon as we arrived at his guesthouse. He said about 800 people would be attending (apparently a normal-sized wedding in Laos)! Despite some feelings of fatigue after a long travel day, we felt it was an event we couldn't miss. Our friends from Luang Prabang, Josh and Thomas, were also staying at the guesthouse. So, a group of about seven weary travellers got into our best (not very good) travel attire and hopped on a bus to attend our first ever Lao wedding.
I was expecting a big party in a paddock or at someone's rural property. Instead, we pulled up at a ridiculously fancy white hall that was teeming with beautifully dressed locals. Kong had driven us to the venue in a bright green bus! We disembarked, entered the hall and were told to pose for photos with the happy couple. None of us could wipe the smiles and looks of disbelief off our faces.
The night started out quite civilised. The bridal party performed some traditional dances while we gorged ourselves on delicious Lao cuisine. And then, the party started! Beer Lao was being poured freely, and the guests started to become more loose. We were all pulled up to learn some faster traditional dances before the freestyle dance floor opened up. I met a hilarious lady who kept shaking her booty and dancing with us. It was an amazing night. We left around midnight while some of the others stayed on for an after party and ended up missing their bus the next day!
The mysterious Plain of Jars
My favourite experience in Laos (so far) was exploring the mysterious and historic Plain of Jars sites. Thousands of jars have been scattered around up to 90 sites in the Xieng Khouang Province in eastern Laos. They are thought to have been used for burial ceremonies during the Iron Age (500 BC - 500 CE). However, who made them, their exact purpose and how they were transported to the sites remains a mystery today.
Nearly 10 of the sites were given UNESCO-heritage status in 2019. They were given this status once teams from MAG and UXO Lao had cleared hundreds of unexploded ordnances that littered the landscape after America's relentless bombing of Laos. The United States dropped more than two million tonnes on the officially neutral country between 1964 and 1973 (during the war in Vietnam). That's more than all the bombs dropped during the entirety of WWII. It's believed that more than 80 million unexploded cluster submunitions remain scattered across Laos, impacting the lives of many still today.
We learnt a lot about the horrific modern history in Luang Prabang and at the visitor centre located at the first Plain of Jars site. The centre also explained a lot about the mysterious jars we were there to see. Archaeologists continue to study the sites. Bones and other funeral features have been found at the sites, suggesting they were used for burial practices.
The jars varied in size and are believed to have been made from rock at a local quarry. It is unknown how they were transported to the sites. The first site is also home to a cave that archaeologists believe was used for cremations. Amazingly, we had this site mostly to ourselves. We were visiting with a friend from the guesthouse, Janna. I reckon these sites would be absolutely packed with tourists if they were in Europe.
Sadly, many of the jars were destroyed and damaged during the bombings in the 1960s and 70s. The grounds were covered in deep holes, left behind by the many bombs dropped here. As a result of this, the site has become a place to learn about both modern and ancient Laotian history. Sites showcasing both ancient and more recent human history in one spot are rare. The image below is a perfect example of those parts of history colliding (in a literal and metaphorical sense).
Site two
We were driven another 30 minutes into the rural countryside to reach the second site. This was starkly different to the first. We walked up a hill into a forested area also covered with the jars. Afternoon light filtered through the canopy above, making the scene feel like an enchanted garden. The site also provided stunning 360 views of rolling hills in the distance.
Site three
The third site quickly became our collective favourite. We had to walk across a wooden bridge and over rice fields to reach it. Farmers madly waved at us as we tried to trudge across a muddy (and incorrect) path in the general direction of the jars. Once on the correct path, we enjoyed lush views of rice fields, water buffalos and local farmers.
The third Plain of Jars site also felt somewhat enchanted. The jars were of different shapes here. Many looked almost rectangular. We could tell that cows were also allowed into the site as we swerved around piles of dung.
These sites are almost indescribable. I spent the entire afternoon in awe of the history and countryside. I feel sad that we were not taught much of Southeast Asia's history at school in Australia. I believe it's something we all should learn about, so that we can become more respectful and thoughtful travellers. Paddy and I loved the region so much that we decided to stay another day and learn more about the local history before making our way down south.
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