Reaching the world’s fifth smallest country, San Marino
- Keira Proust
- Sep 28
- 5 min read
Did you know that Italy is home to two of the world's smallest countries? Most people know about the Vatican, but another micronation can be found in the Italian state. That country is called the Republic of San Marino, one of the world's oldest democracies! Paddy and I found our way there after eating succulent seafood and sipping ice-cold wine in the Italian sunshine. It was bizarre, beautiful and bold.
First stop: Bologna
After a taste of more dreary weather in Munich, we decided to chase some sunshine, seafood and wine in Italy. The first stop quickly became my new favourite Italian city: Bologna. It’s known as the birthplace of spaghetti bolognese and lasagna. Other regional specialities include mortadella, prosciutto di Parma and balsamic vinegar!
The city came to life during golden hour as the vibrant orange, yellow and pink buildings glowed in the sunshine, and the many bars filled with local students. We ate and drank ridiculously well during our five days here, including in the best cooking class of our trip! We made tiramisu and several pastas from scratch, while drinking delicious wines. It was a dream.
Next stop: Rimini
To truly chase the sun, we opted for the seaside town of Rimini on the Adriatic coast. The area is very popular with local tourists, although not so much with those from abroad! As such, we found private hotel rooms for $50 AUD a night. It was delightful to be staying somewhere affordable again, allowing us to spend all our money on seafood and wine instead. We ate very well here. Mussels were a common occurrence, and I discovered a strong love for sparkling rosé! We spent about four days on the coast, catching up with some friends we’d met in Laos, enjoying the 70s retro beach vibe when the sun came out, and people watching wherever we could.
At the time, I noted that "many of the men seemed to be made of leather, their skin overly cooked from the many years in the sun. People of every size and shape were enjoying the beach in small bikinis or Speedos. It didn’t matter if they were sagging or bloated; everyone seemed delightfully comfortable in their skin!" The beaches, of course, are not like those in Australia … they are filled with beach chairs and bars, leaving hardly a scrap of public sand in sight.
Another observation I had in Rimini was that it was the closest I had felt to being in Southeast Asia since leaving in June. Similar to many coastal towns in Southeast Asia, there were a ridiculous number of very cheap knick-knack stores, plastic straws were automatically placed in our drinks, the hotels were dated and filled with hard beds, and many people got around on a motorbike! This was another reason why we came to love the area. Although it’s not glamorous like the Mediterranean coast, it felt authentic and unpretentious.
Final stop: The Republic of San Marino
While lounging on the coast, we read about a small country tucked up in the Italian hillside about 40 minutes away. San Marino is said to be one of the world's oldest democracies. It’s a little over 61km2, making it one of the smallest countries in Europe (after the Vatican and Monaco) and the fifth smallest in the world.
The republic traces its origins back to the 4th century CE, when Saint Marinus allegedly fled his crazy ex-girlfriend and decided to create a Christian settlement there. However, the area’s first known documented mention was in 755. Much of the country’s early history is unknown.
By the 12th century, it had become an independent commune. Despite being located in the middle of Italy, the country has mostly remained independent since its inception.
The capital is the oldest part of the country, set on top of Mount Titano. This is where we spent a night. The city is very easy to reach from Rimini. There are hourly shuttle buses between the two towns. Despite it being a different country, there were no border checks on the way.
Our accommodation for the night overlooked the vast rolling hills of Italy, and we were treated to a wonderful sunset from the balcony. We enjoyed some nibbles while watching the orange hues turn to purple.
I had hoped also to enjoy some wine, but the cork refused to budge. Paddy was lovely and researched ways to get the cork out for me. One article suggested heating the neck of the bottle on an open flame so that the heated air could push the cork out of the bottle! So, he turned the gas burner on and started heating our precious €3 wine. What we didn’t realise was that you shouldn’t do that with a synthetic cork. It didn’t take long for the cork to start bubbling and melting, whoops. We set the wine aside, and miraculously, the cork made its way out of the bottle! Unfortunately, the wine was quite foul and not at all worth all the effort Paddy had gone to.
The city is very compact, although steep, so it was very easy to explore. We wandered the many cobblestone streets and alleys, winding our way up to the 360-degree viewpoint. We could see out to the Italian hills and Adriatic Sea. Apparently, you can even see Croatia from the top on a very clear day.
The most remarkable part of the old city was the fortress and towers built in the 12th century. Their presence defines San Marino and has become the country’s national symbol. They hug the steep limestone cliff that overlooks the Adriatic, creating a dramatic vista for anyone approaching. We enjoyed a beautiful walk along the walls and through some forests to reach the third tower the next morning. It was very pleasant and peaceful. Plus, the views were spectacular.
The most peculiar thing I noticed about San Marino was that there seemed to be more weapons in the country than humans! I counted nearly a dozen weapon stores in the old San Marino city. They were selling all sorts of lethal instruments, from handguns to rifles, katanas and axes. I’d never seen such a sight before. Hilariously, or concerningly, we spotted about 10 boys on a high school trip carrying boxes of Japanese katanas back to their bus. An unusual souvenir for a country in Italy, one would think.
The best museum was Titanus, which had a wonderful multimedia display about the country’s long history. We learnt that despite ongoing attempts to annex the country to the Papal States, several invasion attempts and great wars, the country remained steadfast and intact since its inception. Napoleon even respected San Marino’s independence during his invasion of Italy in the late 1700s and offered to extend its territory, which they declined.
People living in San Marino are known as Sammarinesi; however, they speak Italian and mostly use the euro. Tourism is one of its main industries, with the old streets now filled with stores selling weapons and luxury goods. I am not entirely sure why the weapons industry is thriving in San Marino, but from what I could gather, it is due to some more lenient laws. Due to some other lenient laws (around taxation), the country is also popular with rich businesspeople and companies.
Paddy and I thoroughly enjoyed our 24 hours in the country. We felt like kids on holiday, eating lollies, getting excited about fortresses and looking at all the fancy stores. It was a delightful way to end our time in Italy, soaking up the last warm rays of sunshine before retreating into the Austrian Alps.
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