Exploring the backstreets of Banyuwangi and the blue fire of Mt Ijen

We were very excited to start our more adventurous leg of the journey (in Banyuwangi, Java) after 5 restful days in Ubud. It took 2 cars, 1 bus and a ferry to get there but the final destination didn’t disappoint.

We took a Grab from Ubud to Ubung Denpasar bus depot and then a bus to Gilimanuk Port on Bali’s western tip. Heavy rainfall turned our 4 hour bus trip into more than 5 hours. By the time we got to the ferry port our butts were quite sore from the skinny, cramped public bus seats. We bought 2 ferry tickets for $5 on arrival. You could see Java just across the channel but it took roughly 2 hours to arrive at Ketapang Port. Another Grab ride later and we finally arrived at our accommodation in Banyuwangi, Banana Homestay. The owner, Fryda, was THE BEST! She made us free breakfast every day and was very helpful.

One of my favourite things about arriving in Java from Bali was seeing so many colourful mosques again and hearing the call to prayer echo out from the speakers several times a day. Banyuwangi is mostly used as a launching pad for tourists to explore the mesmerising Ijen volcano crater, acidic lake and blue fire. However, the city itself is very lovely and shouldn’t be missed! We spent 3 nights here. During our stay we explored the backstreets, which were very tidy, colourful and filled with giggling children rushing to say “hello” as we walked past. Lush mountains, rice fields and towering volcanoes created a stunning backdrop to the city.

The main highlight of our time in Banyuwangi was an overnight adventure to Ijen. We were picked up from the homestay alongside other sleepy travellers at midnight and began our 1.5 hour trip to the sulfur filled volcano. Our first stop was a doctor’s clinic to get a medical certificate that proved we were fit enough for the climb (a requirement for anyone now wishing to visit the crater).

We arrived at the mountain base around 2am and were given a safety briefing, gas masks and a head torch before we started the steep scramble up the mountain. Once at the top, about 1.5 hours later, we had another big climb descending into the volcano crater. We shuffled down crumbling rocks and past sulfur miners to reach the rare blue fire phenomenon. A constant stream of head torches dotted the pitch black landscape as tourists hurried down the crater to see the fire, mostly only visible between 2-4am and not always guaranteed. Once at the bottom of the crater a deep blue fire blazed out of the ground. The flames were incredible to see and we were lucky that it was burning bright for us that morning. The moon also reflected on the acidic lake behind the blue fire. Due to the hazardous nature of the lake we weren't allowed to get too close and couldn't fully appreciate it until we made it back to the top of the mountain for the sunrise.

At the bottom of the Ijen Crater to see the rare blue fire.

We had to wear gas masks to avoid breathing in poisonous gas from the volcano. The sulfur miners, however, were not wearing any protective gear. Sofyan, our guide who had previously worked as a miner, said many of the miners suffered health problems such as bleeding noses and scarred shoulders from the gruelling work. They carry baskets full of the chemical element up and down the crater every day. He said many workers tried to transition into tourism for a safer and less physically demanding job. Among the tourism jobs on offer was a sort of human porter service where men would carry and push people up and down the incredibly steep mountain in little carts. This job didn’t sit well with me and felt like exploitation but Sofyan explained that it was better than the mining work.

The walk back up the crater was tough. I found it hard to breathe with the gas mask on and I happily collapsed, sweaty with relief, on the ground once back at the top (at about 430am). It started to rain briefly just before the sun rose and we all rushed to shelter from the cold wind. However, the cool air was a welcome relief from the usually humid conditions in Indonesia. All of a sudden the sun had risen and the vista around us came into view. Although the cloud cover meant we didn’t see a sunrise, the surrounding environment was spectacular and looked like another planet.

Paddy on the top of Mt Ijen once the sun had come up.

Many people made the early morning trek up the volcano.

After soaking up the sights we made our way back down and admired the surrounding lush mountain views along the way. We were treated to banana fritters before we wound our way back through green farmland to arrive at our homestay by 830am. Safe to say we slept well after that. Our next stop on the journey was Malang which we would use as a base for another famous volcano experience: Mount Bromo.

Paddy and I could be in a macpac commercial with all our branded gear.

Tips for Banyuwangi, Mount Ijen:

• Organising a tour for Ijen: Our homestay organised a tour for us to visit Mount Ijen. Most homestays/hostels do this in Banyuwangi but it’s also possible to arrange your own transport to the start of the mountain and do it yourself. We loved doing it with a guide because Sofyan taught us a lot about Java, his culture and the local natural area. We also were able to meet and chat to other travellers, which is always a highlight.

• Exploring the city: You absolutely should venture out of your homestay and into the backstreets of this city. There’s plenty of street art and little alleyways to explore by foot or scooter.

• Recommended time: You could experience this part of Java in 2 nights (if your main focus was to climb Ijen). However, if you wanted to explore further I’d recommend spending 4 nights. That way you could venture out to some of the surrounding national parks or Sukamade Beach to watch turtles lay their eggs.

• Getting around: Grabs are accessible throughout Banyuwangi, except at the ferry port of Ketapang. Taxis control the area here and if you want to order a Grab like we did you have to walk outside the exclusion zone.